FAQ's

Answers to many questions about Moog instruments...

Minimoog Voyager® FAQ

Does it sound like the original minimoog?

Yes, the layout has changed and new features have been added, but we went to a lot of trouble to make sure the sound of the original is there. 

Is the Voyager a real analog synth?

Yes. EVERYTHING in the audio path as well as the LFOs and Envelope Generators are analog.

Does it stay in tune?

Yes. Bob Moog worked long and hard to get the analog oscillator design so that it's stable. You'll find that you won't have to reach for the fine tune control every song.

Is the Voyager polyphonic (plays more than one note at once) or multitimbral (plays more than one sound at a time)? 

No - the Voyager is a monophonic monotimbral analog synthesizer in the tradition of the original minimoog. 

How do I updrade the Voyager's Software?

The Voyager's software is upgradeable by MIDI System Exclusive data. The software is available on this website and is available from the Voyager product page. Upgrading the software requires a computer, a MIDI interface, a MIDI cable, software that can open and send either a .mid standard MIDI file or a .syx System Exclusive file. In addition, the files on the website are zipped for speedy downloads. You will need to unzip them before sending them to the Voyager. The Voyager has a function in the MASTER mode menu called "RECEIVE UPDATE". Connect the MIDI out of the computer to the MIDI input of the Voyager, follow the prompts to enable the Voyager to receive the new software, then send the appropriate file from your computer's MIDI software. A bar graph on the Voyager's display will tell you the status of the upgrade.

If it's an analog synth, why does it have software?

Although the Voyager has an all-analog audio path, software is required to store presets and perform the MIDI functions.

The software is developed by Rudi Linhard, of Lintronics (www.lintronics.biz).

Rudi's specialty is developing software for controlling analog synths, written in assembly language. Rudi's software is extraordinarily robust, fast, and stable. Note when you change a preset in the Voyager that there is no delay as the new sound is loaded. Try that with the latest workstation synth and you'll see how Rudi's contribution makes a difference. 

What's the big black thing in the middle of the front panel?

That's the Touch Surface Controller. When you put your finger or fingers on it, it detects the right and left (X) , up and down (Y) location, and the area (A) covered. These are transmitted as CVs to modulate the Voyager's parameters. 

Does Moog use wood from sustainable sources?

Yes! 
Our wood comes primarily from Tennessee. Hardwoods in Tennessee are growing faster than they are being harvested, and we only use hardwoods. US hardwoods are a world-wide model of sustained forest management.

Our wood supplier's environmental policy: 

"We are committed to managing all our natural resources in an environmentally sensitive manner for the good of future generations. Being a wood products manufacturer, we will support responsible efforts to manage forests to provide a mixture of benefits, such as clean water, timber, fish and wildlife habitat, soil conservation, outdoor recreation, and natural beauty."

Can Filter Spacing or Resonance be modulated on the Minimoog Voyager and Minimoog Voyager XL?

Because the Voyager XL (and Voyager) hardware is designed the way it is, there is a control input for the Filter Cutoff Frequency, but not the Filter Spacing or Resonance. We had to draw a line as to how many dedicated CV inputs we could include. In the end we chose those inputs that we felt had the most utility and we had to remove a few that were more esoteric.

However, we cleverly designed in a few hooks that provide the Voyager flexibility in routing external CVs to controls that don't have a dedicated CV input. This can allow external control Voltages to control things like Filter Spacing etc.

The MOD1 and MOD2 inputs accept 0 to +5V control inputs. The MOD1 input is the controller for the Pedal/On Mod Buss, normalled to +5V. The MOD2 input is selectable as a Mod Source for both Mod Busses, normalled to +5V.

Note that Filter Spacing can be selected as a Programmable Modulation Destination in either Mod Bus. Thus you could route the MOD2 input to control Filter Spacing through the Mod Busses.

Also, either MOD1 or MOD 2 inputs may be routed using the Voyager's POT MAPPING feature to control any of the front panel knobs, including Filter Spacing or resonance.

 

Moogerfooger® FAQ

What kind of expression pedal can I use with my moogerfooger?

An expression pedal for use with moogerfoogers should contain a 50K or 100K potentiometer which is connected from the sleeve to the ring terminals of the plug. The potentiometer wiper is connected to the tip terminal. The pedal cable should be shielded, with the shield connected to the sleeve. Moog Music sells the model EP-1 expression pedal for use with moogerfoogers.

Do moogerfoogers have “true bypass?”

No. In the MF-101 and MF-102, the signal always goes through the preamplifier and drive circuits, so the drive control is always active. In the MF-103 and MF-104, the output level control allows the user to balance the levels of the “phased” and bypassed signals. In the bypass mode, the MF-103 and MF-104 pass the signal through one buffer amplifier, but do not pass it through the drive control. Thus, the signal is not amplified or “colored” when the unit is in bypass mode.

What kind of power adapter can I use with my Moogerfoogers?

Because the Moogerfooger series was designed to be more powerful and versatile then the average effect pedal, the way in which these pedals are powered is different from the typical Boss type effect pedal. The Moogerfooger series utilizes some nifty powering schemes that allow for increased headroom and superior op-amp performance.

What this means to musicians and recording engineers is that the Moogerfooger series can be used just about anywhere; between a guitar and amp, or patched into the effects send of your mixing console, the Moogerfooger series will sound great! Add to that the all the expression pedal ready CV inputs and the on board voltage controlled LFOs, oscillators, envelopes, mixers and etc... the Moogerfooger series gives you EVERY bell & whistle. 

HOWEVER, all of this comes at a price dictated by the Laws of Nature! You can't power your Moogerfooger any old way. You must obey the rules or you will pay the price of a non-functional Moogerfooger. 

Knowing how much people enjoy functioning Moogerfoogers, I have come up with a short list to help users properly power their Moogerfooger series effects. 

USE THE WALL TRANSFORMER SUPPLIED WITH THE UNIT BY MOOG. 

That's it... well sort of. I realize that there often conditions in which this is not an option. The original supply could be lost, stolen, broken. Perhaps you want to use one of those pedal boards that allow you to power all your effects with one supply. Here is another list to help you achieve maximum Moogerfooger performance within the previously mentioned
conditions. 

1. TIP POSITIVE. Your Boss power supply will not work. Unlike the Boss style power connection, Moogerfoogers use TIP Positive connections. This is actually far more common outside of the world of guitar effects, and thus easier to find, making the cost of replacements lower.

2. 9V. The Moogerfooger series should be powered by +9 Volts. Not much more to say about this... 9 Volts is a very common value of wall transformer. That is why it was chosen. 

3. 300ma. Moogerfoogers, having the bevy of options that they do, require more current then the average effect pedal. 

The 101, 102, 103, 104Z, 104SD, 107 and CP-251 will operate on 200ma, but the 105 and 105B need 300ma. A supply of greater value, say 500ma, will work fine with any of the Moogerfoogers. 300ma is a good value to remember, as it will work with any and all of the Moogerfoogers.

4. Isolation. For the most noise free and optimal performance of the Moogerfooger series, the power supplies must be TRANSFORMER ISOLATED. This means: 

No daisy chain supplies. 

No Digital Power supplies. 

Products such as the "One Spot" and "Power All" will not provide the optimal powering conditions for the Moogerfooger series. They will work, but at the price of extraneous noise and so they are not recommended.

At this point you might be asking yourself "What could I use, aside from the Moog supply?" 

Radio Shack sells Wall Transformers with inter-changeable tips. These are handy for emergency replacements. REMEMBER! 9 Volts 300ma (or more… 500ma is common and will work fine) AND make sure the TIP is set to Positive "+". 

The aforementioned replacement Wall transformers from Radio Shack are a good option if you are on the road and unable to order a new one from Moog. However, when there is time, the safest bet is to order a new Moogerfooger Wall Transformer from your Dealer or directly from Moog Music. 

What is the difference between the Main audio output and the Aux audio output on the MF-103 Phaser?

The main output carries the original signal PLUS the phased signal. The Aux output carries the original signal MINUS the phased signal. Generally speaking, the Main output will have more high and low frequency response, while the Aux output will have more midrange. If both outputs are connected to a stereo sound system, you can hear a stereo effect where parts of the frequency spectrum move between the right and left channels.

I have an MF-102 ring modulator. I can hear the carrier frequency in the background. Is this normal?

Yes. Some amount of carrier bleed-through is inevitable in a ring modulator. There is a squelch circuit that minimizes the amount of bleed-through, and squelches the carrier when there is no signal. By feeding the MF-102 as hot a signal as possible (making sure the drive light is in the yellow range), the bleed-through can be made less noticeable.

I have an MF-102 ring modulator. When I play quietly, the notes cut off before they die out completely. Is this normal?

Yes. The MF-102 has a squelch circuit that minimizes the bleed through of the carrier oscillator. As the squelch circuit kicks in, it can audibly effect the decay of the note. This can be minimized by feeding the MF-102 as hot a signal as possible.

When I plug a cable into the CV inputs on a MF-108 or MF-105 the knobs do not work the same as before. Why is this?

The MF-108 and MF-105 nominalize the CV to the mid point of 2.5V when not actively used. This allows an external CVs to pull the CV value in both the positive and negative direction from the knobs, unlike the other Moogerfoogers where the CV only adds to the knob position.  This arrangement increases flexibility in that CVs are bi-polar in nature. This means that when the knob is in the middle position a 0-5V CV gives full sweep range and conversely, when the CV is in the middle the knob has full sweep range.

What happens if I ground the CV input as other Moogerfoogers?

The knob will only give half the range.  Fully CW rotation will give the same setting as mid position with no cable inserted to the CV jack.

If this is the case how can I use the MF-108 / MF-105 in a patch panel setting?

The ring jack gives a 5V CV voltage for use with the Moog EP-2 expression pedal. This voltage can be split to provide the 2.5V nominalization voltage. To do so use a TRS (balanced stereo) patch panel and cables from the CV jacks.  When not using the CV insert a dummy plug into the panel. The dummy plug is wired with two 100k 1% or better resistors soldered into it. One resistor goes from the ring to the tip terminal while the other resistor goes from tip to the sleeve (ground) terminal.  Alternatively you can use a 50K pot with each end going to the ring and ground and the wiper to tip. Adjust until you get 2.50V on the tip terminal.  For added stability add a 0.1uF capacitor from tip to sleeve.

Why does my MF-108 output only the dry signal when summed into Mono?

There is another stereo mode that will output wet only when summed into Mono. Page 18 of the user's manual states:

To change the output summation to result in only wet signal, remove the 4 feet on the back of the MF-108 and locate the dip switch in the upper left corner (small black switch labeled SW3). The default setting is when switches 6, 3 & 2 are in the OFF position and 5, 4 & 1 in the ON position. To change to the alternate stereo mode, change the dip switch so that the switches 6, 4 & 1 are in the OFF position, and switches 5, 3 & 2 are in the ON position.

You can set the stereo ouput to be just wet, or just dry, which may collapse better at the cost of as wide a stereo image. To disable Wet, turn off the dip switch 3. To disable Dry, turn off dip switch 1-2.

 

 

 

 

 

Etherwave® Theremin FAQ

My Etherwave was working fine, but now I get no sound when I turn it on. What happened?

Something may be too close to the volume antenna. Make sure the theremin is set up on a mic stand (not on a table). Make sure that no cables are near the volume antenna. Any object near the volume antenna will reduce or shut off the volume. Check your amplifier and audio cables with another instrument. Check the power adapter with a voltmeter: set the meter to measure AC volts. Measure across the two outside pins of the adapter (at 9:00 o’clock and 3:00 o’clock). You should get a reading of 14 to 16 volts. If your adapter is working, but you still have no volume, see Tuning the Volume Circuit.

My Etherwave was working fine, but now the pitch range is reduced to only an octave or two. What happened?

The tuning of the oscillator circuits has changed over time. The theremin relies on a tiny change in capacitance to produce its pitch changes. If the oscillators drift even a small amount over time, you may find that the pitch range is reduced. See Tuning the Pitch Circuits.

I want to build a custom cabinet for my Etherwave. What do I need to know before I begin?

See Installing the Etherwave Circuitry in a Custom Enclosure.

How can I reverse the response of the volume antenna, so that the volume increases as my hand gets closer to the antenna?

See the Understanding, Customizing, and Hot-Rodding your Etherwave Theremin booklet that came with your Etherwave.

I would like to build one of the Hot Rod circuits for my Etherwave, but Im not qualified to build the circuitry. Can Moog Music build it for me?

Moog Music does not offer custom circuit building. The circuits in the Hot Rod book are intended as do-it-yourself projects. If you are not experienced in building circuitry, look for a technician or engineer who can build the circuitry for you.

Tuning the Pitch Circuits

The circuit board of your Etherwave theremin has been assembled, tested, and adjusted at the factory. However, you may find it desirable or necessary to trim the adjustments of L5, L6, or L11. For instance, you may want to set your Etherwave to cover a slightly different pitch range, or the finish you used for your cabinet might have slightly different electrical properties than that which we adjust the boards for at the factory. 

Before tuning, clean off your workbench and move aside large conductive objects like desk lamps and test gear. Leave a clear space of two or three feet around your work area. Place the cabinet base in the middle of the cleared space, and put the pitch antenna in place. Using a clip lead or a temporarily-soldered wire jumper, connect the test points labeled VCA OUT and GND. Then connect the instrument's audio output to headphones or a monitor amplifier.
Now follow these steps to adjust L5 and L6: 

1. Set P1 (the Pitch Tuning control) to its mid-position. 
2. Grasp and hold the pitch antenna with one hand. With the other hand, adjust L6 for zero beat. (Note: If the slug in L5 is fully counterclockwise, you have to turn it clockwise a turn or so in order to hear zero beat.) Then carefully turn L6 counterclockwise until you hear a pitch of about 3 kHz (3 1/2 octaves above middle C). 
3. Let go of the pitch antenna. Slowly retract your hand from the vicinity of the antenna. You will hear the pitch go down. If the pitch does not go down to zero beat when you've retracted your hand completely and stepped back, then L5 is set to too low an inductance. Advance the slug in L5 (that is, turn it clockwise) a small amount, perhaps 1/10 turn or so, and repeat steps 2 and 3. If the pitch goes to zero beat and then begins to ascend as you retract your hand, then L5 is set to too high an inductance. Turn the slug in L5 counterclockwise a small amount, and repeat steps 2 and 3. 
If the pitch jumps abruptly to a very different pitch as you retract your hand, then L5 is set to far too high an inductance. Turn the slug in L5 counterclockwise, perhaps 1/4 turn, and repeat steps 2 and 3. Eventually you will converge on the proper settings of L5 and L6. The idea is to achieve settings in which the pitch is at zero beat when you've stepped away from the theremin, begins to ascend when your body is about 24" from the pitch antenna, and is about 3 kHz when your hand touches the pitch antenna. Tap lightly on L5 and L6 as you converge on the proper settings, as this will stabilize the tuning slug positions. 

This completes the tuning of the Pitch Oscillators. In performance, the exact pitch tuning is achieved by adjusting the Pitch Tuning control.

Tuning the Volume Circuit

To determine if the problem is in the volume antenna/oscillator circuit, use a clip lead or jumper wire to connect the two test points marked VCA OUT and GND. These test points are found at the right rear of the circuit board. If you get output when you connect these two points, the problem is in the volume antenna/oscillator circuit. Follow the volume circuit tuning instructions below. 

A.

Using a Voltmeter
Remove the temporary shorting connection between the VCA OUT and GND test points. Connect a voltmeter from pin 12 of U3 to ground and install the volume antenna. Position your Etherwave so that the volume antenna is at least a foot from table tops, furniture, etc. Follow these steps to adjust L11: 
1. Set the VOLUME knob to its mid position. 
2. Carefully turn the slug in L11 counterclockwise until it is out as far as it will go. The meter should read about -12 volts. 
3. Slowly turn the slug clockwise. At some point you will see the voltage begin to rise from -12 volts. Stop when the voltage goes through zero and becomes positive. You should then notice that bringing your hand near the volume antenna lowers the voltage; the meter should read about minus 12 volts when your hand is two or three inches from the volume antenna. 
4. Slowly turn the slug counterclockwise until the tone is about half its maximum loudness. You should then notice that bringing your hand near the volume antenna lowers the volume, and the tone is completely silent when your hand is two or three inches from the volume antenna. 
5. Unplug the power connector, put the top back on the Etherwave, and plug the power back in. Rotate the volume tuning control throughout its range. The volume should reach maximum when the control is at about 3:00. You may have to take the top off and make small adjustments to L11 to get the tuning just right. This completes the tuning of the Volume Oscillator. In performance, the exact volume tuning is achieved by adjusting the Volume Tuning control. 

B.

Adjusting L11 without a Voltmeter
Remove the temporary shorting connection between the VCA OUT and GND test points. Install the volume antenna. Position your Etherwave so that the volume antenna is at least a foot from furniture and other large objects. Follow these steps to adjust L11: 
1. Set the VOLUME knob to its mid position. 
2. Carefully turn the slug in L11 counterclockwise until it is out as far as it will go. Then turn on your amplifier and set its volume control so that the theremin tone will be audible but soft. 
3. Slowly turn the slug clockwise. At some point you will hear the theremin tone. As you turn the slug in L11, the tone will get louder, reach a maximum loudness, and then get softer. Turn the slug back to the maximum loudness, and notice how loud the tone is. 
4. Slowly turn the slug counterclockwise until the tone is about half its maximum loudness. You should then notice that bringing your hand near the volume antenna lowers the volume, and the tone is completely silent when your hand is two or three inches from the volume antenna. 
5. Unplug the power connector, put the top back on the Etherwave, and plug the power back in. Rotate the volume tuning control throughout its range. The volume should reach maximum when the control is at about 3:00. You may have to take the top off and make small adjustments to L11 to get the tuning just right. This completes the tuning of the Volume Oscillator. In performance, the exact volume tuning is achieved by adjusting the Volume Tuning control.

Retuning your Etherwave for a Different Pitch Range

You can retune the Etherwave’s pitch circuits to cover a smaller or a larger pitch range. By covering a range up to two octaves above middle C for instance, your instrument’s range will be only four octaves, but the intervals will be spaced farther apart and it will be easier for you to play a desired interval. Similarly, by covering a range of up to four octaves above middle C, your instrument will cover a six-octave range, but the intervals will be spaced very close together and proper interval production will be proportionally more difficult. 

To retune your Etherwave for a four-octave range, first reposition the heavy wire going to the pitch antenna connector, so that it is close to the aluminum foil. (This will lower the resonant frequency of the antenna circuit.) Then repeat the tuning procedure, substituting 1.5 kHz (2-1/2 octaves above middle C) for 3 kHz in Step 2.
 

Similarly, to retune your Etherwave for a six-octave range, raise the heavy wire going to the pitch antenna connector as high as possible. Then repeat the tuning procedure, substituting 5 kHz (slightly higher than four octaves above middle C) for 3 kHz in Step 2. 

Installing the Etherwave Circuitry in a Custom Enclosure

Due to the growing number of customers interested in customizing the Etherwave, and the difficulties involved in adapting the Etherwave circuitry to different enclosures, Moog Music is not able to offer extensive technical support to everyone who wishes to build a custom enclosure for their Etherwave circuitry. 

Below are some hints and common problems you may run into if you build a custom enclosure for your Etherwave circuitry.

The theremin antennas sense a tiny change in capacitance, and use this change in capacitance to produce changes pitch and volume. Simply moving the theremin nearer to an object can affect the pitch, or turn the volume down (or off). For instance, setting the Etherwave on a table will often shut off the audio output. Removing the cabinet top will change the pitch tuning.

Installing the theremin circuitry in a custom enclosure often requires the use of longer wires from the circuit board to the antennas. It is likely that you will have to retune the oscillators to compensate for the longer antenna wires. Enclosing an Etherwave (or any theremin) in a custom enclosure also requires careful consideration of the materials used. The Etherwave circuitry cannot be installed in a metal enclosure, or any enclosure with a conductive finish. Read the tuning instructions.You will need to go through a similar tuning process if you enclose the Etherwave circuitry in an enclosure other than the original cabinet. Consider retuning your Etherwave for a greater or smaller range. If you have difficulty with the tuning procedures, you should probably reconsider building a custom enclosure. The tuning procedure can be tricky, as the two pitch adjustments interact. One can very easily end up with the pitch “going the wrong way” (the pitch going down as you approach the antenna), or with a very small pitch range, or with no pitch at all.

Pitch Knob Response

The pitch knob on my Theremin responds strangely. As I turn it, it lowers the pitch, then appears to raise it. Is that normal?

This is normal. The Pitch and Volume knobs on an Etherwave theremin do not work directly on the sound as you might expect. Rather, they work always in concert with the theremin antennas; in fact it is only via the antennas that you affect the pitch or volume of the sound directly. The Pitch and Volume knobs on the control panel serve to adjust the response of the antennas to your movement.

As you know, the theremin changes its pitch in response to your movements relative to the pitch antenna. The way it responds is rather interesting: When you are very close to the pitch antenna, the pitch (or frequency) of the output is very high, and as you move away from the pitch antenna the output frequency gets lower, descending all the way down to zero cycles per second (total silence), which we call "zero beat." Zero beat is the point in space, or the distance away from the pitch antenna, at which the output frequency descends to zero. The interesting bit is that if you keep moving away from the pitch antenna, past the point of Zero beat, the pitch of the instrument will start to rise again, right through zero and then climbing into the audio range.

When you turn the Pitch knob on the etherwave control panel, you are not directly "turning the pitch up or down," rather you are moving the point of Zero beat closer to or farther away from the pitch antenna. In effect, you are stretching or squashing the scale length, or distance between notes of the theremin. The reason for doing things this way is to allow the player to adjust the scale length to suit his or her individual needs, putting the necessary musical playing range in a convenient physical position for the player's motions. 

Turning the Pitch knob counterclockwise actually moves the point of Zero beat farther away, which has the effect of stretching the scale out so that a given distance from the pitch antenna will produce a higher pitch (as you must go farther away from the antenna to get the same decrease in pitch as before). Thus, turning the Pitch knob to the left seems to increase the pitch of the instrument. Turning the Pitch knob clockwise moves the point of Zero beat closer to the pitch antenna, effectively squashing the scale length and decreasing the distance between notes. 

This means that if you held your hand or body a certain fixed distance from the pitch antenna and turned the Pitch knob to the right, you would hear the pitch of the instrument descend, as the point of Zero beat is moved closer and closer to the pitch antenna. At some point (about 3/4 of the way around the dial, as you experienced) the point of zero beat moves right through you and becomes closer to the pitch antenna than you are! At this point, you'll hear the pitch start to ascent again and you will find your motions have the opposite effect on the pitch: moving towards the antenna decreases the pitch, and moving away increases it -- this is because you are now on the wrong side of Zero beat, as it is closer to the antenna than you are. Thus a move towards the antenna is a move towards zero beat from the wrong side... the pitch you hear will decrease to zero, and then as you keep moving towards the antenna, you'll hear the pitch increase again as only then are you in the "correct" playing range, between the antenna and the point of Zero beat.

Moog Guitar FAQ

Does The Moog Guitar require special strings?

The Moog strings that come with guitar have a specific metallurgy designed to work with the Moog Pick-ups. Other strings will work in emergency situations but the guitar will respond best with Moog strings.

GHS "Infinity Steel" Medium strings have been tested on The Moog Guitar and exhibited no apparent problems. 

Is a bolt-on neck available?

At the present time this technology does not allow for a bolt-on design.

Did Bob have anything to do with it?

Bob and Moog President Mike Adams often spoke of entering the guitar market, but it was not until Paul brought this idea forward that we felt we had something truly innovative to bring the market. 

Some may know that when Moog and Gibson were both part of Norlin (in the 70's), Bob actually worked with Gibson and they jointly created the Gibson RD Artist Guitar. So Bob's interest in technology and the guitar was nothing new.

Can I change the pick-ups?

The Moog Pick-ups are the heart of our system. They cannot be changed.

Is Moog building the guitar?

The guitars are built by high quality luthiers and shipped to Moog where the electronics are installed. The final set-up and intonation is done by Moog's in-house luthier. 

Who invented it?

The basic technology behind the Moog Guitar Electronics is from Moog Associate and inventor, Paul Vo.

Animoog FAQ

Q: I just updated to Animoog v1.1 and can't launch the app. What do I do?

A: We have submitted version v1.1.1 to Apple, which will fix this issue and are awaiting their approval. Conversely, you can save your presets, delete Animoog and reinstall from the app store. WARNING: Deleting Animoog without backing up first will cause presets to be lost.

Q: Where can I find the Animoog User's Manual?

A: It's available for download here.

Q: I have an ipad and I cannot get any sound out of the app. It comes up and 
when I hit the keys they activate, but no sound. Please help!

A: First, note the hardware slide switch on the iPad next to the volume up/down buttons. Make sure the switch is not in the locked position (it shows orange if locked). This may fix the problem right away. Next go to the iPad Settings, go to General, and scroll down until you see “Use Side Switch To:”, and make sure this is set to Lock Rotation and not Mute.

Q: How do I export the song I've just created

A: With some audio recorded in the Record module, press the Buffer COPY button on the Record module.
This puts the audio onto the AudioCopy clipboard as a file called clipboard.wav.
You can do two things with it now: if you have any other apps which support AudioPaste, you can paste the audio from the clipboard into those apps.
To get the audio onto your computer, connect the iPad to iTunes, click on the iPad within iTunes and go to the Apps tab; scroll down until you see File Sharing.
Select Animoog from the File Sharing list and you should see clipboard.wav appear in the list of shared files.  You can Save the file to your computer from here.

Q: I have purchased an Expansion Pack, but I don't see the new Timbres or Presets:
A: More than likely, you purchaed the Expansion Pack, but it wasn't downloaded.
All you need to do is go through the process of purchasing the expansion pack again.
You will not be charged twice and this will unlock the new Timbres and Presets
 

Filtatron® FAQ

I just installed Filtatron and it is not making any sound.

When first installed, Filtatron opens a blank preset. The easiest way to get started is to go to the presets menu (tap PRESETS at the bottom of your screen) and tap one of the presets. That preset will immediately start to play.

You can adjust the volume of the Line Input, Sampler and VCO in the LEVELS section of the MAIN page.

If you are still not hearing sound, adjust the volume control on your iDevice and check the connections and volume settings for any amplification equipment you may be using.

Filtatron v1.1 now features a settings panel that allows you to route audio output to the speaker, earpiece or Bluetooth. Make sure you have the latest Filtatron update and route audio to the appropriate output for optimal operation.

Is a PDF version of the User's Guide available?

Yes. It is available here:

Filtatron User's Guide

I am experiencing low volume when using Filtatron.

Filtatron v1.1 now features a settings panel that allows you to route audio output to the speaker, earpiece or Bluetooth. Make sure you have the latest Filtatron update and route audio to the appropriate output for optimal operation.

What hardware do I need to use Filtatron to process live external audio?

Filtatron has been tested on an iPod Touch with iRig(TM) hardware from IK Multimedia. Consult the documentation for iRig and other hardware for additional information.

What's new in v1.1?

Major upgrades to the Sampler - import any song in your collection into the sampler, and record and play back samples of unlimited length.

Pitch Lock feature for the VCO Pad - allows you to play a chromatic scale using the Filtatron oscillator.

Route audio output to speaker, earpiece or Bluetooth - a new settings panel also allows you to set the sample rate, audio latency and control response rate. 

These and many other improvements make Filtatron v1.1 an indispensible audio app. Since its release in October 2010, Filtatron has found a home in a wide variety of musical settings. Its high audio quality and ease of use make it ideal for everything from studio-level sound design and processing to catching a few moments of creativity while you’re waiting for your coffee.

 

 

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