MF's with Patchbay

[RaisedArm]

Hello,

i would very much appreciate some help here.!
There was an older thread on this forum explaining how to use mf's with a patchbay and trick them into thinking that there is nothing plugged into them even if they are connected with a pbay. The trick was soldering a jumper wire between the tip and the sleeve of a dummy plug and leaving it in the pbay if not using the sockets,
The guy who posted the thread with pictures isn't active on this forum anymore and the pictures are offline. I must admit that i'm very new to cables/electronic stuff so i would very much appreciate of someone could explain me a little how to do this.
and also.. what kind of wire is a jumper wire? i'm from the Netherlands and i can't seem to find the right translation. What else is it used for?

best,


Maxim

[latigid on]

Hi there,

Which Moogerfoogers do you own? And which brand of patchbay do you intend to use?

[RaisedArm]

MF 101,102,103, 104 Z, 105 M, 107

Patchbay NEUTRIK NYS-SPP-L1

[EMwhite]

MF 101,102,103, 104 Z, 105 M, 107

Patchbay NEUTRIK NYS-SPP-L1

If somebody would document a map for all of the Foogers, that would be helpful.

Some of them seem to work in an additive way, meaning that an expression pedal plugged into a jack is altered by the setting of the Fogger pot.

Others change function completely (likely have mechanical switches built into the jack that connects another part of the circuit).

Would be clear to open them all up and see, but at least for me, mine are all racked. Likely, some modification (desoldering) of the make/break switches is necessary.

Latigid, you must have been through this at least once? All of mine are represented in the list above so thanks in advance.
.

[latigid on]

Okay, so all of them then

Here's a list of things you need to normal:

MF102: Carrier Out to Carrier In
MF103: LFO Out to Sweep In (not sweep). So in 12-stage mode, the LFO will still modulate the second six stages by default.
MF105M: Right Out to Left Out, so when bypassed the dry signal is fed to both outputs. However, apparently you can switch a jumper inside on the board to do this as the default. By going the "hack" way, your signal will be louder when bypassed...

You'll also want to split the Tap/Step input with a Y-cable.

MF104Z: This is a tricky one. Without a path to ground, the expression inputs on the 104 go a bit wild, meaning the rate and feedback and mix pots don't work properly. The best way around this is to normal from the tip to ground through a 100k resistor.

I think the MuRFs are the only MFs which use a centred expression pedal sweep. From memory I tried to maintain consistency with the other 'foogers by re-wiring some of the sockets, but it didn't work too well.

[latigid on]

Straight from Neutrik:







Ask if you need more help on the normalling settings.

[RaisedArm]

thanks latgit, i still don't understand everything but i'll try a few things out and will see if i run into something insoluble..
also, would it make sense to feed M Murfs' Right Out and Left Out with a Y cable into a the back of the patchbay and then insert a jumper wired dummy plug on the front, would it have the same effect as you explained? the thing is that i want to save some sockets on the patchbay as all of the Moogerfoogers have 50 I/O 's all together and the patchbay has just 48.

[RaisedArm]

can someone please post a link with a picture of a jumper wire? i have no clue what kind of wire this is...

[Tidda]

Hi Maxim, and hello to everyone else (first post here),

Here's a picture of a jumper (the blue thingy), and as you can see there's a little wire in there.

It is used to transfer low current low voltage between two pins so it's very suitable for the suggested soldering job.

Tidda
p.s. Voor 'jumper' in deze context weet ik geen vertaling. Heet hier gewoon jumper voor zover ik weet.

[RaisedArm]

Hey Tidda, thank you for pointing it out, i think i found the right translation for "jumper" in dutch wich is (verbindingsdraad)

here are some pictures of what i did with a TS cable soldering the jumper between Tip & Sleeve,

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/6458/1020006.jpg

http://img807.imageshack.us/img807/2999/1020010.jpg


so in practice if i plug these dummy plugs into the patchbay when not in use instead of leaving nothing plugged in, then the problem should be solved?

[latigid on]

Couple of things:

You can leave expression pedal inputs floating, that is they can have a plug inserted with nothing on the patchbay. The exception is for the 104Z, at least for my SD the CV inputs work better when there is a resistor between the Tip (control) and Sleeve (ground).

However, if you want to use any expression pedals, you need to use TRS plugs, to stop the +5V present on the Ring terminal being shorted out.

Using a shorted plug won't make any difference to any CV out (e.g. LFO, carrier, envelope). But you will want to normal some connections, like I said before. If you don't want to use the normalling on your patchbay, just plug a patchcord from the CV that you disconnect (as happens when you plug into some sockets).

[RaisedArm]

ok i kindi get it, i'm not intending to use any expression pedals, so in that case TS only should be good for now right?
I do need one more translation please! with a resistor you mean a jumper between Tip And Sleeve of a cable? or something inside the moogerfooger? and did i do it right (the jumper soldering) with the dummy plug in the pictures i posted earlier? I will be trying them out later today to see if it will work..

[latigid on]

Hi, TS is fine.

Yes, you need to "jumper" the resistor between Tip and Sleeve.

For your dummy plugs, you don't actually need a cable hanging off, it can all be housed within the plug shell.



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